Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Post-wall building... go on a road trip!

What sounds like the best way to relax after building the walls to a house? How about a 1000-km road trip the next day??? No? Well, that's what we did.

On Sunday, we left the straw house project around 4pm, only to rush home, shower, put something classy on and attend Nick's grandma's 95th birthday party. Normally this would have warranted a post all of its own, but I was so wiped out and thinking of the upcoming trip that I barely have any recollection of the party (except that I FINALLY got to wear this cute strapless red dress I found at a thrift store in Cleveland for $5).

Monday morning, we hit the road in the farm truck at 7:30 am. We were trying to beat beep-o'clock but it started early that morning, so there was lots of traffic and noise trying to get out of the city. Just on the other side of the mountains that form the border of the Region Metropolitana and Region VI O'Higgins, we encountered our first earthquake-related delay. Both the bridges on Route 5, the Panamerican highway, had collapsed, so we had to take a detour through the country. The upside of this was that they didn't charge tolls, so we didn't have to stop and wait in the toll line every hundred kms or so.

The whole way down, we passed many bridges that had completely collapsed or sides of the road that disappeared. Here's one where the other lane just fell off:

Another where the bridge just snapped off:

This is the old bridge over the Rio Claro that broke as well:

I was a bit disappointed when we got to the South because it was cloudy from farmers burning off their fields. Burning stuff is one of my biggest frustrations here. No one seems to care about the environmental implications of burnings acres and acres of vegetation, let alone the quantity of garbage that is burned. I read reports from the tsunami ravaged areas that said they were dealing with the debris by burning it all in order to avoid a health crisis. Avoid a health crisis? It just changes what type of health crisis you will have! But I digress...

We got to where we were staying, outside Puerto Varas on the shores of Lago Llanquihue, late in the evening, but the skies had cleared and we were greeted with one of the most spectacular sights I have ever seen in Chile. Above the grand Volcan Osorno, a full moon had risen and was wrapped in a beautiful halo.

From Straw house and Puerto Varas

I know this looks completely fake, but this is an unretouched photo (long exposure obviously) I took of the situation

Monday, March 29, 2010

Straw House Pics

There are so many photos that I took that I can even begin to tell a story around, so I thought I'd just post a bunch of photos here of the process.

The first wall developing

Within an hour or so, the walls were developing



The walls where I planned for sections to be one bale thick turned out the best.

While the walls were going up, they started planning the roof dimensions on the floor:


The house was like a beehive:

Nick and the farm guys enjoy a late afternoon beer. It was HOT that day.

This was most of the people who came, but not even everyone. I can't thank them enough.

At the end of the day, the house looked like THIS!

Here's an interior shot with the roof plate:



Sunday, March 28, 2010

Ongoing list...

This is sort of for myself, sort of for you. People have asked me what I need from the US and also I tend to forget these things when I'm actually there, so I thought I'd start a list of things I/We could always use and/or always want. (Note that this is not directed at the group of you coming to visit in a couple of weeks!!!)

Mr Clean Magic Erasers
Q-tips
Rica-rica sauce from Teahouse Noodles
Malley's hot fudge
Decaf coffee (esp Trader Joe's Mocha-Java or Phoenix anything med/dark)
Trader Joe's olive tapenade
Flip flops from Old Navy (love 'em! but the farm kills them)
Almond butter
Beer- especially
Briana's blush vinagrette dressing
Campbell's tomato soup

Straw House 1

March 27 is my and Nick’s 7-year dating anniversary. Never in my wildest dreams on that night in 2003 when Nick first told me all about his grandmother’s farm and its vastness did I imagine myself here 7 years later, building a house that was destroyed in one of the biggest earthquakes ever recorded. One of the biggest earthquakes ever recorded. It’s a phrase that gives me chills and probably always will…

On this bright Saturday morning, however, here we were about to build a house. Over the past week, Nick and I have built frames for all of the windows (10 of them) and have begun laying the wood frame that goes around the base of the straw bales. We preserved the original foundation, which was not damaged, but when the remainder of the house was demolished, we discovered that all of the concrete floors were at different levels. The guys who work here releveled the foundation—60 bags of concrete and a truckload of gravel later, it’s ready to be built on.

Nick and I got to the job site very early—around 7:30—so we could finish installing all of the wood pieces before the volunteers showed up. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky, and the day threatened to be quite hot, but at this hour, working outside was manageable. By ten o’clock, this is what the base of the house looked like:

From Straw house and Puerto Varas

Let me explain what all of the bits are. At the very bottom, of course, is the concrete foundation. On top of that, we laid the black tar paper—this seals out moisture rising up through the concrete from the straw. The wood on top of that is also to give the straw a base and to keep it up off of any potential moisture. The frames everywhere are for the windows. These give the windows added stability and also keep them square because bales don’t have a tendency to be square. Finally, the rods sticking up are something of an unorthodox touch, and maybe not one we’d repeat. They are to spear the bales as they come down, keeping them in line and adding more stability to the building in the case of an earthquake. You also find these rods in masonry buildings for the same reason. More about why we’d do it differently next time later...

Around 10am, our architect friend, his business partner and a coworker appeared to begin helping us. Since we hadn’t finished frames for the doors yet, we put them to work doing that and squaring up the joint. This is another thing that in the future I would not worry too much about at this stage. Bales coming down from every angle and being pounded into place have the potential to unsquare even the best-braced frames, plus the whole thing is adjustable until the plaster goes on. Live and learn.

I began to wonder if our volunteers were still coming when suddenly a train appeared on the horizon. A quantity of vehicles I have never before seen on our humble little fundo raced down the stony hills and into the makeshift parking area, and 10, no 15, no TWENTY young men spilled out in shorts, tennis shoes and bandanas, ripping open packs of work gloves and pulling out coolers with drinks and ice. It was as if an army of worker bees had showed up to build a hive.

I stood frozen in awe at the tableau for just a moment before it erupted into chaos. Suddenly gravel was filling the wood base, bales were being moved from the storage site to the house site, a flurry of orders were being given. In all this excitement I nearly missed the first bale being layed, but I caught it like a blink of an eye:

From Straw house and Puerto Varas

And from there it was a marathon. Bale after bale after bale was speared on the rebar, quickly stacking into a wall. I have the muscular strength approximately equal to one of their toes, so I left the lifting to the capable ones. During the course of the day, I ran around cleaning up straw (huge fire hazard), consulting our straw bale bible, and making sure people were fed and hydrated. The temperature climbed and climbed, with not a cloud in the sky or roof above to provide shade. It must’ve been in the 90s.

Suddenly it was after 6pm, and since it’s autumn, the light was beginning to wane. I informed everyone of the hour but no one wanted to move. A last surge of energy meant victory—we finished all of the walls!

Back at the main center of the farm, the complex where our house is/was, we had an asado arranged. A late birthing season led to the availability of a few lamb—a perfect thank-you for this occasion. The wife of a farm employee arranged everything, including a picnic table for 30. Nick and I ran into town to buy wine and soda—the volunteers had brought a truckload of beer.

The sun plummeted in a way it only seems to do around the equinoxes, and we celebrated under the stars with one lightbulb and the full moon to light us. Course after course of roast lamb, potatoes and kept coming, and we toasted with red wine. The house had a shape.

Friday, March 26, 2010

House Tomorrow

I am slogging through the slowest internet connection on the planet because I have to tell you about the straw-bale house going up tomorrow. Finally! Sort of perversely, the one-month anniversary of the earthquake is tomorrow. It all at once seems like a month is way too long to have taken to get to this point, and like it can't POSSIBLY have been a month already. But, here it is, at 3:34 tomorrow morning... Incidentally, in 1985, the last big earthquake here like this one (an 8.0 near Valparaiso), they had a 7.2 aftershock over a month after the initial shock. Here's hoping that doesn't happen again.

As I have mentioned before, an amazing friend rallied his architectural and engineering coworkers to help us rebuild one of the employee houses, which we are doing with straw bales. Tomorrow we are expecting almost 20 people to show up and help us raise the walls! Somehow even though I've always tried to reach out to people in need, it's still striking to a) be the one in need and b) have people reach out to us. Not only are they showing up, but they have arranged for their own housing (seeing as how we don't have any) and food. I am floored by the generosity of all of these people.

Despite the way it sounds, a straw bale house is not just a square fort made of straw bales stacked in line. In fact, it's a rather intricate procedure. First we had to make a solid foundation. Luckily the foundation of the original house was not damaged in the earthquake, so we were about to keep it. It had to be leveled out, and yesterday the guys finished pouring that cement. In a weird twist, I was doing some measuring around the foundation when I found an inscription from the original maestros:
Ok, blogger and my ridiculous internet connection are not agreeing with me posting a photo, so here's a link--
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3701524&l=8e9dbee3a4&id=795878287

The original foundation was laid 50 years ago to the date! So weird. It's a sign of some sort, but I can't quite figure out what... (maybe that our straw-bale house will be leveled by an earthquake in about 49 years and 11 months?)

Once the foundation is done, you have to set a wooden frame for the bales to go on. Under this frame, you must put some sort of waterproof barrier-- we used tar paper. The whole purpose of both of these is to prevent water from seeping in and ruining the core of your straw walls. A mirror of the bottom frame is made to lay on top of the straw bales once they are up. This helps compress the bales (making it more sturdy and fire retardant) and make an even surface for the roof. We finished both frames today.

Additionally, since you don't have a wood structure for the windows and doors to sit in, you have to create one for each window and door. This is what Nick and I have been up to all week, and we just finished the last frame today.

Tomorrow, at sunrise (don't cringe... the sun is rising at almost 8 now), we'll head back out to get everything started for the group that is coming. What we have to do is set all of the window and door frames on the bottom wood frame, put steel rods all around to spear the bales as they go up (thus making the house even more seismically stable), and then finally start loading up the bales. At some point during the day I have to run to the "nearby" town (35 mins) to get things for tomorrow night-- as a thank-you, we are having a lamb roast for everyone.

So that's our progress in a nutshell. I have LOTS of pictures already so as soon as we're back in Santiago, I will upload a step-by-step of the house.

Oh. Did I mention that we have to drive to Puerto Montt on Monday? For those us you not brushed-up on your Chilean geography, that's south, way south. Like, at least 12 hours south. We have to go pick up a ram... yeah, more on that later....... when does the fun stop?????

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Internet connection stinks :(

I'm back in Santiago for a day again, sadly to report that our internet connection at the farm has been AWFUL. I spend 37 minutes the other day trying to load msnbc.com! So obviously I gave up trying to post anything. I really need to figure out how to make things better there if we are going to manage living there full-time.

This weekend was a bust in terms of the house raising because of our inability to get supplies on time. We couldn't get the straw until Saturday because the truck driver had other obligations during the week. And the wood that we ordered right after the earthquake JUST came on Saturday, too, and it was wet. Like, cut a piece and sap pours out of it wet. So we postponed the wall-raising until THIS coming Saturday, which also means we have to miss a couple of days of my Father-in-law's visit AND the concert he's playing on Saturday night :( Who needs a social life?

The good news is that Nick and I have become expert carpenters. That's a total lie. We're mediocre carpenters who took a day to figure out how in the world to build a frame for recycled windows. We have three frames down, now, and ... 5 to go. Plus four or five door frames :-/ I am not enjoying this building stuff, although I will certainly be proud when it's done. All of this came with its usual set of Chile setbacks: blown fuses, poorly cut wood (the 2x4s were 2.1x4.3), crummy supplies. In the meantime, the farm truck blew out three tires, so we had to take it in to get a new set-- that took another whole day of our time. What I wouldn't give for something to go smoothly........

So we go back tomorrow to finish the carpentry stuff, then the guys come on Saturday to do the walls. Lots of pictures to come! I am extremely interested to see how this straw-bale building goes. As much as I read about it being a legitimate building technique, I still can't quite wrap my mind around it. We are looking into it for our own house, although having a builder do it to expedite things, but it just seems so... weird! We shall see.

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Off again to the farm

Here's hoping we have an internet connection this time! It has been almost a week since the last big aftershock, so I'm thiiiiinking everything should be working ok. We are going to start the big project-- the straw bale house! I have never built ANY sort of house before, let alone one with such a radical building style, so it'll be interesting to see how this goes. Luckily I'm not in charge, I will just be there to document such a big event, and do things like measure and calculate. Apparently on Saturday and Sunday a big group of people is coming out to help us... will report back on how that is progressing because I'm not sure exactly of the details.

If we have internet tonight, I plan to do an entry about the geology of earthquakes here. You all know that I love geology to begin with but I have learned a lot since this experience, so I can't wait to share it.

Today is St. Patrick's day, so I suppose most of you in the US are going to be celebrating green today. I asked a friend of ours here several weeks ago if he knew what a leprechaun was and he said no. In fact, I think he thought I was trying to trick him by making up a bizarre name. So, needless to say, no big shamrocky things here today! I don't know why that makes me sort of sad since I'm not even a drop Irish... but I am 100% Clevelander, so I suppose today is usually sort of the kick off of Spring in Cleveland, and THAT I miss.